![]() |
Nightingale 9 |
It isn’t pretty, this murky brown salad. Take a look at those
splinters of green papaya, gnarly rings of fried shallots and clots of
air-dried beef. It could be a box of matches spilled in
dishwater—certainly too homely for the pages of any respectable food
magazine.
But we’re evolved eaters here in New York City, too sophisticated to
deny ugly things their fair shake. Taste it and understand the moral of a
thousand children’s parables about inner beauty: This funky, crunchy
bombshell of compulsive flavor might be the most interesting salad in
Kings County.