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Nightingale 9, 345 Smith St, Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn

Nightingale 9
It isn’t pretty, this murky brown salad. Take a look at those splinters of green papaya, gnarly rings of fried shallots and clots of air-dried beef. It could be a box of matches spilled in dishwater—certainly too homely for the pages of any respectable food magazine.

But we’re evolved eaters here in New York City, too sophisticated to deny ugly things their fair shake. Taste it and understand the moral of a thousand children’s parables about inner beauty: This funky, crunchy bombshell of compulsive flavor might be the most interesting salad in Kings County.

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Alder, 157 Second Ave, East Village, New York

Alder
In certain circles—where pork belly’s sustainability and the legitimacy of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants are subjects of debate—Wylie Dufresne can be as disruptive a topic as harem pants, cilantro or Benghazi. Drop his name into polite conversation and watch the mood ripple.

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Grain Store, Granary Square, 1-3 stable street, London

Grain Store
It wasn't meant to be Grain Store this week. Trying restaurants when the paint's barely dry is tempting – like seeing a film on the first night, you want to be the one to air opinions before everyone's become bored by the whole subject. It's not helpful for chefs, restaurateurs or readers, frankly, since often things need tweaking and settling. But a set of circumstances bring me to Grain Store in its first few days. Happily, its chef/patron is Bruno Loubet, who's had enough launches to hit the ground running, and who has a clever idea to show off.

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The Talbot Hotel, Yorkersgate, Malton, North Yorkshire

The Talbot Hotel
Following a deafening dinner at Jamie Oliver's Fifteen a few years ago, when twenty-somethings maintained a roundelay of "Happy Birthday" for much of the evening, I've steered clear of restaurants run by TV chefs. So it was with trepidation that I entered the refurbished mansion (Pevsner: "probably c.1840") that houses the Talbot Hotel in Malton, North Yorkshire, since the owners Sir Philip Naylor-Leyland and his son Tom have installed local boy James Martin, an ornament of Saturday Kitchen and other televisual bonbons, as executive chef.

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Christopher's, 18 Wellington Street London WC2

Christopher's
How many restaurants which survive for more than 10 years are actually any good? In the restless churn of the London food scene, the answer is arguably: not very many. Chefs move on, managers are poached, the owner loses interest and that exciting new concept grows as stale as last week's leftovers. Inevitably, the sizzle subsides and the quality drops. At which point, it's only a matter of time before the nice chap from Cote, or Jamie's Italian, or Bill's comes knocking to ask about the lease.

For a restaurant to survive in a prime location for a decade or two, it must be doing something right. Or at least doing something OK-ish with lots of charm and a happy way with its regulars. Christopher's is one such – a Theatreland fixture which by virtue of hanging on in for 22 years, now counts as one of London's grand old-stagers. Founded by Tory scion, Christopher Gilmour, and splendidly housed in a handsome Covent Garden mansion, Christopher's specialised in American-style dining – lobsters, burgers, steak and the like – at a time when that kind of fare was the exception in London rather than the rule.

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Restaurant 1701, Bevis Marks Synagogue, London

Restaurant 1701
Well, this is awkward. I've arranged to meet David Baddiel at Restaurant 1701, a smart new kosher restaurant in the grounds of Britain's oldest synagogue, but I'm having trouble finding it. David has phoned me to say he has arrived, and "it's much more Jewish than I was expecting".

I finally find the place, beyond the Bevis Marks synagogue, in a security-gated courtyard. And it's completely empty. I call David. He's a few streets away, in another kosher restaurant – also called Bevis Marks – where he's ordered a drink, eaten a piece of bread and counted at least three women wearing sheitels.

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The Fish & Chip Shop, 189 Upper Street, Islington, London

The Fish & Chip Shop
Des McDonald's name is legendary in the food business – the legends in question being Midas and Croesus. When Nick Lander published The Art of the Restaurateur last year, McDonald was one of its stars. An Irish baker's son, he opened two restaurants in the City of London by the age of 22 and become executive chef of Caprice Holdings, founded by Chris Corbin and Jeremy King, the chaps who triumphantly revamped The Ivy, Scotts of Mayfair, Le Caprice and J Sheekey.


When the company was sold, McDonald became a worldwide setter-upper for the new boss Richard Caring, opening restaurants from Dubai to California – but he never opened a restaurant that was all his own work, so to speak, until now. McDonald could have chosen any genre. He could have opened a sushi bar, an omelettes-only eaterie, a Galway-Fiji fusion joint, and the foodies would have flocked to check it out. So what did he go for? A fish and chip shop.

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Master & Servant, 8-9 Hoxton Square, London


Master & Servant
I know what you're thinking, because I'd be thinking the same thing. You've seen from the top of the page that this week's restaurant is in trendy east London, in heady Hoxton of all places, and you're thinking, "Oh hell, here comes another article about the most urgently cool place in London, hip and happening bloody Hoxton, crammed full of artists and graphic designers and fashion slaves, and people who work for Vice magazine."


Well, relax my friends. This page is devoted to gastronomy, not geography (well, at least until my final paragraph). So let's just concentrate on the food, shall we?

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Oblix, Level 32, The Shard, London

Oblix
"So, I go to London Bridge Station," I said to the Oblix phone lady. "Then what?"
"You're kidding aren't you?" she replied. "You look up in the air…"
"I'm not asking the location of the Shard," I said coldly. "I want to know how to get into your restaurant without paying the building's £25 entrance fee."
"No problem," she said, "You just go down the escalator, to find the lift."

It's all ups and downs, getting to Oblix. You stand gawping up at what seems like several thousand miles of shiny steel (about as welcoming as a medieval fortress) before heading for the entrance. Three doormen murmurously discover your intentions, and whisperingly suggest you take the escalator, then ask (discreetly) at the bottom.Downstairs, you find three more laconic bouncers who (hesitantly) direct you to the third of three doors. Yet another doorman inscrutably directs you to the lift, which whizzes you up 32 floors at warp-factor 19…

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Jamie Oliver's Diner, 23a Shaftesbury Avenue, London

Jamie Oliver's Diner
Avocado fries? Oh, here we go, more Jamie Oliver "reinventing things" (shudder). My last JO experience was at Union Jacks, his pizza venture where the reinvention included such aberrations as Stilton and pork-crackling "flatbread". I was not, it's fair to say, impressed and gave it one of my lowest-ever scores.

So it is with mixed feelings that I approach the Diner, a two-year pop-up in London's West End. Jamie Oliver jumping on two bandwagons at once (ouch!) – that of the pop-up and of the haute burger/hot-dog movement – could be simultaneously bad news for my dining pleasure and good news for my critical eye.

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Kaspar's Seafood Bar & Grill, The Savoy, London

Kaspar's Seafood Bar & Grill
The scene opens with a man and woman, smart of suit and high of heel, sashaying through the marbled lobby of the Savoy. Giddy with fun on this special night, our golden couple trips past the winter garden gazebo, swerving around blocky Americans and gossamer-haired dowagers, to reach their destination, the famous riverside restaurant.

A manager stands, tapping at a plinth-mounted iPad, like a synth-pop artist on a late-Seventies edition of Top of the Pops. He looks up briefly, then returns to his screen with renewed focus. What can he be doing? Sending an email? Updating Facebook? Bashing out the instrumental break to "Vienna"? Finally, reluctantly, he tears his eyes from the screen to deal with the couple, who no longer feel like Fred and Ginger, but more like Fred and Rosemary West.

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Heaton, Butler and Bayne, Floral Street, London

Heaton
Heaton, Butler and Bayne is named not for the restaurateur behind it – that's Robert Siegler, who also owns the excellent Market Café in Broadway Market, east London, and nearby Le Deuxième – but the manufacturers of stained-glass windows whose factory was here from 1855 onwards.

Clement Heaton, James Butler and Robert Turnill Bayne eventually became influential far beyond London, having inserted their work in Westminster Abbey among other places. Something of their early workshop has been retained in the sparse white brickwork and minimal furnishings of the restaurant that has now opened here. The site used to be known as The Forge, also owned by Siegler, and is part of a renaissance of sorts in the area: Polpo, Opera Tavern, Meat Market and Mishkin's have all opened up around Covent Garden in recent years to a warm reception.

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Red House, 2 Elystan Street, London

Red House
The American invasion of London continues. It seems only yesterday that Keith McNally opened a simulacrum of his New York brasserie Balthazar, to reviews that found the food pedestrian. The Shake Shack burger franchise will soon explode upon Covent Garden, along with the Bubba Gump Shrimp Co in the Trocadero, Piccadilly, while the hip New York hotelier André Balazs will open a new joint with a fancy grill in Marylebone. Soon you won't be able to move in London for luxuriantly-priced USDA steaks, seafood platters and ingenious deployments of quinoa.

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The Shed, 122 Palace Gardens Terrace, London

The Shed
Curiously, for the bohemian epicentre of the world's greatest city, Notting Hill has never been renowned for its restaurants. One notorious exception was The Ark, which under various guises gave west Londoners somewhere reputable to eat and be seen eating for nearly half a century. It used to be run by a couple called Sarah and Colin Harris but has now been taken over by the Gladwin brothers: Richard, Oliver and Greg, who manage, cook, and farm respectively.


Richard used to work at Brawn and Bunga Bunga; Oliver used to cook at the Oxo Tower, Launceston Place, Just St James and River Cottage; and Greg farms at Nutbourne in West Sussex, supplying a chunky bit of the menu through his labour there. They have built an ultra-rustic, slightly anarchical shed-cum-kindergarten, with split-level seats, barrels for some tables and a hugely inviting, playful atmosphere. 

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The Potato Merchant, 55 Exmouth Market, London

The Potato Merchant
When I shared an office with my great friend Nina, the highlight of our day was going to Spud U Like for lunch. There wasn't much to choose from, it's true, but that suited me – a low-level starchy-carbs addict.

Now Nina's a world-famous casting director with her own empire while Spud U Like has almost disappeared. So imagine my delight at hearing about The Potato Merchant, a new spot in London's Clerkenwell specialising in spuds in all their glory. On a recent Saturday I took Mr M and Miss T along for a late, leisurely lunch.

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Restaurant Story, 201 Tooley Street, London SE1

Restaurant Story

Can you judge a book by its cover? Not in the case of Story, the white-hot new restaurant housed in what looks like a garden centre on a traffic island just south of the Thames in Bermondsey.

During opening week, the here-be-dragons territory at the scruffier end of Tower Bridge rang to the keening of disoriented restaurant critics and bloggers, whose desperate attempts to be first through the doors of Story were endangered by their inability to find it.

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The King's Arms, Chapel Street, Georgeham, Devon

The King's Arms
There are many villages in the South-West of England that qualify for membership of that bloated category of the "foodie destination". Georgeham in Devon is not one of them. Let that not put you off visiting, however, because a lovelier spot when the sun's out could barely be imagined.

Located on the North Devon coast, it's just past a place called Croyde, which may sound like one of the departments in hell, but is in fact full of gorse and thatched houses. You get to these villages via Barnstaple, where a new bypass – big news in the South-West, bypasses – has cut a good 45 minutes out of the journey time from anywhere south or east. Georgeham has a beautiful church, summer festivals, a glorious beach where the surfing is good three minutes away, and two pubs.

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Le Grill, Hotel de Paris, Place du Casino, MC 98000, Monaco

Le Grill, Hotel de Paris
The great Anthony Burgess used to live in Monaco. He was friendly with Princess Grace but wasn't wild about the Porsche-posing throng who hung out there. Asked how it felt to be "one of the Beautiful People", he replied, "Beautiful People? I have no time for those irrelevantly gilded with adventitious photogeneity".

A shameless interest in the fortunes and physiognomies of the rich and beautiful does, however, draw the rest of us to the French Riviera from time to time; just as the fleshpots, cocktails and topless bathing in Cannes and San Tropez attracted our parents' generation. And since Monte Carlo is currently celebrating 150 years of posh-gambler style, we thought we'd help by visiting the best hotel in town.

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Plum + Spilt Milk, Great Northern Hotel, Pancras Road, London

Plum + Spilt Milk
Not so long ago, the idea of going out for dinner at a self-styled boutique hotel in King's Cross would have been a joke. Rackety, crackety, crime-ridden KX was a place nice folk scuttled through, eyes averted.

What a difference a few years and a gazillion-pound regeneration programme can make. With its street-food market and open-air performance space, its buffed-up warehouse quartier and performing arts hub, King's Cross is now an area to travel to, not through. The opening last year of a dramatic new concourse brought the train station into line with its swanky hinterland. And now the next phase of its transformation is unveiled – the rebirth of the Great Northern Hotel, a Victorian survivor, connected to the new concourse on the St Pancras side, which has stood derelict these last dozen years.

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